Author: SylCreate.com

‘Twas the week before Christmas, when all through the house; Not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse… and yet, somehow a vintage, passed-down-through-the-generations Christmas decoration ended up in need of repair.

Not quite the version of the famous Clement Clarke Moore poem you were expecting, but the scenario it describes is probably familiar. If you do not have at least one Christmas decoration breakage every year, then you are in the minority.

Whether it be Jesus, Mary, Joseph, the wee donkey or one of the shepherds who ends up looking pretty sheepish when the cat snaps his head off, Christmas decorations are in need of frequent repair once they are hauled out of the loft every October. That is then you put yours up, right?

There are two reasons why decorations are so susceptible to damage. The first is that they spend months locked away in damp, dingy conditions. That is not good for them. One solution to this is obviously to leave them up all year round, but that might make you look a little weird… according to my partner anyway, who gave that response when I suggested it to her once.

The other reason that decorations break so frequently is because they are old, brittle, family heirlooms kept despite the fact they have clearly seen better days. There is something satisfying about putting the same angel on the top of tree that has adorned it for the past 30 years, even if said angel has yellowed to the point that it looks like Bart Simpson.

Nobody wants to throw away their baubles, their stars or the nativity scene in the window. Those same decorations are as big a part of the traditional Christmas as bucks fizz with breakfast and a punch up over a Scrabble abbreviation shortly after the Queen’s Speech.

Which is why when decorations break, it can be a disaster on a par with travelling 90 miles on a donkey to Bethlehem, only to find out that every hotel in town is booked up. This is the situation that one family in Sussex found themselves in (the decoration, not the donkey) when one of the Magi was accidentally snapped in half by an unknown party.

Christmas would not be Christmas without this chap from Egypt bearing frankincense. And so, the family journeyed to the door of SylCreate, desperately hoping that someone could repair their decoration in a modern-day Christmas miracle.

One of SylCreate’s wise men instantly got to work, opting to use Sylmasta CAE1500 High Viscosity Superglue for the repair. CAE1500 offers strong bonding between all materials, including ceramic, porcelain, plastic, metal, wood, paper and some fabrics.

It is that a good an adhesive that Joseph himself probably would have used it in his carpentry business, had cyanoacrylate superglue existed in Israel 2000-odd years ago.

The high viscosity of CAE1500 gives it a slightly longer bonding time of between 10 and 45 seconds on non-porous materials, depending on the material type. This is important in model making, restoration or DIY tasks, because if two parts being bonded are not attached correctly with an instant curing superglue, then it can be difficult to rectify the mistake before it sets.

CAE1500 was applied to the breakage point on the bottom half of the king. Superglue Activator was brushed onto the top half to accelerate the cure time, with our SylCreate wise man clearly confident in his glueing abilities.

Other instances where you might wish to speed up cure time include applications when significant volumes of glue are required, such as gap filling or bonding wide joints. Activator also prevents glues being absorbed by porous surfaces.

With CAE1500 spread on one half of the king and Activator on the other, the two pieces were then pushed back together. After holding them in place for around 10 seconds, excess glue squeezed out of the joints was wiped away.

The Magi had been perfectly healed, with no glue or crack lines visible. He was back on his feet, permanently repaired, and ready to deliver his gift to Baby Jesus once more.

SylCreate had saved Christmas.

Need to undertake Christmas decoration repair of your own? Want to stock up on glue just in case of future Christmas emergencies? The Superglue & Activator Kit contains High Viscosity, Multipurpose and Penetrating Superglue, Activator and Ultra-Fine Nozzles to cover you for every kind of glueing task.

Coldglaze PRO 2 is one of the longest-serving products in the SylCreate range – and yet not many people outside of a specialist group of china, pottery and ceramic repair professionals know what the glaze is or what it does.

Until now. We are here to demystify Coldglaze and have recruited an expert in the art of using it to help us. Ian MacDonald is a restoration professional who has been using the Sylmasta Coldglaze PRO 2 System for years in his work and he has helpfully agreed to reveal the secrets to his trade.

But before we get to Ian’s restoration and glaze expertise, here is everything you need to know about the Coldglaze PRO 2 System for china, pottery and ceramic glaze and restoration.

What is Coldglaze PRO 2?

Used on its own, Coldglaze PRO 2 Gloss replaces the glaze effect on china, ceramic and pottery without requiring the use of heat. It has excellent non-yellowing characteristics, is water resistant and has high-strength surface adhesion.

Coldglaze can also be used to repaint patterns, either through mixing with pigments or oil colours. Various other products exist as part of the Coldglaze range for different finishes; Sylmasta Matting Agent S432 creates a matt finish when added to Coldglaze whilst CGW White Paste makes a high-quality, homogeneous white glaze.

Can anyone use Coldglaze PRO 2?

We recommend Coldglaze PRO 2 to professionals who have the necessary equipment and expertise to use the product. For example, when large quantities of glaze are mixed in industrial applications, then an extractor hood is needed – something which professionals have access to, but casual restorers may not.

That is not to say that beginners cannot use Coldglaze PRO 2. Small pottery and ceramic repairs are safe to carry out in a well-ventilated room and it is not too difficult to pick up the basics, providing you have the time and patience to master the art.

As with learning any new skill, it is best to practice before taking on the restoration of a priceless artefact so that you have the confidence and the knowledge to carry out a repair.

How to use Coldglaze PRO 2

Coldglaze PRO 2 is supplied in two parts with a mixing ratio of four parts resin to one part hardener by volume. Mixing takes place in a suitable, clean container, such as a small foil or glass dish.

The glaze is thoroughly mixed with a small stirrer. If the glaze needs to be thinned, then Sylmasta PT146 Thinners are added to the mix. Coldglaze PRO 2 can then be applied using either hand brush or airbrush with a pot life of up to eight hours under normal working conditions of 20℃.

If using a hand brush, we recommend a high-quality brush made from goat hair. To airbrush, add 20 percent by volume of thinners to obtain the necessary viscosity of glaze, which can then be applied to china, pottery or ceramic.

Adjustments to the airbrush mix can be made depending upon the desired finish. A wet film thickness of 50 – 60 microns will leave a dry film thickness of 25 microns.

At 20℃, Coldglaze PRO 2 has a surface dry of 10 to 15 minutes. A hard dry is achieved in 2 to 4 hours and full properties reached after seven days. Additional coats of Coldglaze must be applied either within 24 hours or after 90 hours.

The drying process can be sped up via force drying. A flash off period of 10 minutes should be allowed for the solvents to evaporate. Temperatures of 120℃ are recommended for 20 to 30 minutes when Coldglaze is used on ceramics and metal.

For plastic, particular care has to be taken to avoid deformation of the material. Typically, we recommend 60℃ for 2 to 3 hours.

Airbrush or hand brush?

When it comes to using Coldglaze to repaint, the experts at Lakeside Pottery have previously written about when is best to use airbrushing and when a hand brush is the more suitable option.

For general background colours and surface painting, they use an airbrush. It achieves a finer, translucent coating without any brush marks. The ultra-fine thickness blends seamlessly with areas that have not being restored or re-glazed.

Hand brushes are recommended when repainting highly detailed original patterns. To achieve the best finish, using a brush that is similar in type and stroke movement to that used when the original pattern was added is important.

If the restoration task involves repainting rather than merely glazing, then this is always the most time-consuming task. It is one that you will want to get right though as the success of the entire application can often hinge on it – so be sure to check out the Lakeside Pottery guide to painting and glazing repaired ceramic.

Improving the quality of a Coldglaze PRO 2 finish

Increasing the cure time of Coldglaze PRO 2 allows the glaze more time to flatten, giving a higher quality gloss finish to ceramic, china and pottery. A longer cure also improves adhesion of the glaze.

We recommend the use of Retarder for doing this. Retarder can also be used to reduce the overspray when airbrushing and reduce the cotton wool effect, particularly in warmer conditions. Retarder is added to PT146 Thinners at a ratio of 5 to 10 percent by volume.

Using Coldglaze PRO 2 with other glazes

Coldglaze PRO 2 can be used with other glazes, but we recommend using Barrier Coat before applying it to an existing glaze. This is to prevent a mixing of the two different glazes, which can have a detrimental impact on the item being restored.

Ian MacDonald’s restoration process

As promised, we spoke to one of our longest serving Coldglaze users to find out more about his restoration process. Ian was kind enough to take us through restoration from step one to step six, providing an invaluable insight for anyone wanting to restore or repair:

1) Start the process by establishing the extent of the damage and any previous repair work. It is also important to establish exactly what the client wants from the restoration.

2) Before the repair can begin, any previous repair materials need to be removed. These include glue, paint and muck. This is not always easy as, depending on the age of the piece, these materials might have been on the piece for 100 years.

3) Next, work out the order of reassembly of the pieces to avoid a potential lockout of the final piece. Assembling the item loosely using masking tape or similar can help to inform the process.

4) You can then decide the restoration method. Can the piece be glued all in one go using a clear epoxy adhesive? Or will it be better to reconstruct on a piece-by-piece basis with a setting period between each piece? This period can be anywhere between 20 minutes to an overnight cure, depending on the epoxy adhesive used.

5) Once the piece has been assembled, there may be minor gaps which need to be filled. This can be done with an epoxy putty like Milliput. In some cases, a new part may have to be fabricated using a mould from Godiva Wax or similar.

6) Finally, the piece is rubbed down and colour matched to the original. This is either done using acrylics or by mixing powdered pigments with Coldglaze PRO 2 which is applied via hand brush. A clear covering of Coldglaze either brush or spray applied is added to complete the restoration.

We would like to thank Ian MacDonald for his help with this article. Ian is available to carry out restorations of all kinds of items, and he can be contacted via email should you need an expert for your application.

The Coldglaze PRO 2 System

“When my children were young, I remember them playing with flat moulds which produced plaster casts of buildings. So I thought to myself, what if I used plasticard to create original components for scale model buildings, turned them into moulds and then cast them in resin?”

George Ridgway does a lot of casting and mould making, all of it as a hobby. 54mm British soldiers from the Napoleonic Wars? Check. 1/1200 waterline ships? Check. 1/72 military vehicles? Check.

He started out intrigued by the process and as time has passed, gradually became braver with what he attempts, leading to a pretty impressive portfolio of work.

Today, we are talking about his buildings. George is explaining how he came to combine plasticard and casting resin in the construction of scale model buildings in N gauge as part of a model railway layout.

“I had built many factories, houses and other buildings from plain plastic sheets, Slater’s Plastikard and similar embossed plasticard. What I really wanted to do though was produce original components to allow duplication and variations.”

Which is when George had his Paul on the road to Damascus moment, or in this case, George on the road to the SylCreate shop moment. If his children were able to use flat moulds to make plaster cast buildings, then he could use the same process with plasticard and resin for producing customised sets and copies.

“I start out by drawing designs of the buildings I want to create,” says George, explaining his method. “I then build the master components from plasticard and place these in shallow mould boxes made from further plasticard.”

“The boxes are as tight to the shape as possible, but with sufficient surround and depth so as not to waste moulding rubber and to retain a strong mould.”

George’s moulding rubber of choice is Sylmasta 380, our medium grade which offers good dimensional stability as well as a softness suitable for deep undercuts. His master moulds of his plasticard components are simple, flat, single moulds.

From these, George uses Polycast G26 to cast resin copies of the originals. “I keep the resin versions as shallow and fine as possible to avoid needing to trim flash, cut out windows or lose any detail.”

“The original components are designed with flanges and to the same dimension so that the walls of the buildings can be glued together using the products in the Sylmasta Superglue Kit. Designing quoins, buttresses and other supports helped.”

Once the structure of the buildings have been created, George adds details like drainpipes, window glass and chimney stacks from plastic rod, tubes or additional plasticard.

George is at pains to point out that he did not master the craft of creating scale model buildings from resin overnight. “The process took time and experimentation to get the original components accurate, the moulds to mature fully and the resin products to thoroughly harden.”

“Even now, sometimes my castings are too thick. I have learnt to be cautious when mixing the resin and filling the mould and that help creates well defined copies that require little trimming.”

“I am no great model painter and initially, I was concerned that the final finish may not have been as well defined as printed card buildings. That was not a problem though and the end products are less flimsy or vulnerable compared to plasticard.”

“Having more robust buildings is good, but the main benefit is of course that I can cast many different customised parts specifically designed for my layout. The mix and match of components allows a real range.”

Plasticard is not George’s only material for creating masters. He also hand builds from wood, plastic, metal and modelling clay. “I am getting braver about what I try now, thanks to finding Sylmasta moulding rubber and Polycast resin so easy to use.”

“I would say I am more of a modeller than a railway or military fan. No matter what the layout, I enjoy trying out my own methods – even when there are better proprietary products for sale.”

“With how many of us model makers there are and the fact that a lot of us like building our own layouts, I guess many of your SylCreate customers feel the same.”

They say a picture is worth a thousand words, in which case how much is a video worth? Well, we are about to find out as we have dug deep into the SylCreate archives to find one of the first videos we made, explaining how to make a two-part silicone mould and use it for resin casting.

Our casting resins, moulding rubbers and all the accessories needed are some of the most popular sellers on SylCreate. Model makers use them to produce highly detailed copies of masters or modified parts.

Artists like our friends at The Pea Hive create jewellery, trinkets, ornaments and other items. Industrial users use the casting and moulding process to bypass the need to fabricate new machine parts, instead opting to copy existing ones.

It is actually an industrial application being carried out in the video we found, as one of our technicians creates a copy of a gear using Polycast G26 Polyurethane Casting Resin and Sylmasta 380 Silicone Moulding Rubber.

The process though remains the same, whether it is a piece of a machine being cast, a necklace, a statue of a dog, or a scale Roman amphitheatre. Watch the video below and read on to discover how easy making a two-part silicone mould and using it for resin casting can be…

Step One: The Mould Box

Firstly, you need to make a mould box which, unsurprisingly, is a box in which you will form your silicone rubber mould. No exciting titles here, I am afraid – it does exactly what it says on the tin.

In our video, the mould box is formed using plasticard, Sylmasta CAE1500 High Viscosity Superglue and plasticine. The item which the mould is to be taken of is measured to create a box of the perfect size. Create a box too large and you are wasting moulding rubber; create a box too small and, well, you can probably see the problem.

There are lots of ways to create a mould box other than with plasticard. Essentially, anything which can hold the liquid moulding rubber in place until it sets will do. When we have run out of plasticard stock before, we have even been known to recommend that customers use Lego to make their moulding box…

The item to be moulded is then pressed into the plasticine, with impressions made in the plasticine which will act as keys for the finished two-part mould.

Step Two: Making the Silicone Rubber Mould

To make the silicone mould, the moulding rubber is mixed with the catalyst and stirred until the liquid is streak free. Once mixing has been completed, the moulding rubber is poured into the mould box to create the first component of the two-part mould.

Each grade of Sylmasta Silicone Moulding Rubber has a different de-mould time. Once the specified time has passed, the plasticine is removed to reveal the other half of the item which now needs to have a mould taken.

To prevent the two parts of the mould sticking together as the second half is formed, the rubber inside the mould box is coated with release agent. Next comes one of the most important stages of making a two-part mould and one that a lot of people forget, believe it or not.

To get casting resin into a two-part mould, the rubber needs a couple of holes through which the resin can be injected. As our video shows, these can be made by using plasticine to attach a couple of bits of plastic to the item being moulded.

The rubber will form around the bits of plastic, which can then be removed once moulding is completed to leave two holes in the finished mould. Without these holes, there is no obvious way to inject the resin into mould, which is obviously going to cause a bit of a problem down the line.

Once the plastic sticks have been attached, more of the rubber is mixed and poured into the box to create the second half of the mould. When this part has been left for the specified time, both parts are removed from the box and are now ready to use as a two-part mould.

Step Three: Resin Casting with the Silicone Mould

Moulds made using Sylmasta Silicone Rubber are reusable. Remember the Roman amphitheatre we mentioned a little earlier? All the arches for that were made from one mould, which shows just how durable and long-last a Sylmasta mould can be.

When it comes to using casting resin, Part A and Part B are mixed in the prescribed ratios and then injected into the mould through one of those very important holes that were created during the mould making stage. Enough resin is in the mould once it surfaces from the second hole, after which the mould gets a shake and a little more resin is injected.

After the recommended curing time has passed, the mould is opened up and sitting inside will be a highly accurate copy of the master made from resin.

As with most things in life, the more practice and experience that a person gains when resin casting and creating silicone moulds, the better their work becomes.

Most of our beginners kick off with the Sylmasta Casting Kit which contains enough G26 Resin and 380 Silicone Moulding Rubber to get started, alongside all the accessories needed.

The Sylmasta Casting Kit XL contains five times as much G26 Resin and twice as much 380 Silicone Moulding Rubber whilst individual resins and rubbers can also be purchased separately in larger quantities.

If you would like to share your casting and moulding creations made with our products, then please email photos of your work alongside the SylCreate materials used and a description to sales@sylmasta.com.

We love seeing them and would be particularly interested in seeing how any first-timers get on when following our newly-recovered instructional video. Happy mould making and happy casting!

It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas, everywhere you go! And if that is making you think about Christmas gifts and decorations for the festive season, then we have got one word for you – handmade.

Christmas is a great time for crafting and there is something special about making and then giving the gift of handmade to friends and family. When it comes to decorating the tree and all the other little trinkets that turn your home into a winter wonderland, that too is made all the more magical when it features the personal touch.

Which is why we asked our resident resin artist Loz from The Pea Hive what she would be getting up to for Christmas and whether she had quick and easy craft ideas that we could try out? Rather than simply tell us, Loz decided to show us.

So without further ado, here are The Pea Hive’s quick and easy decorations and gifts ideas for a handmade Christmas.

Handmade resin cast Christmas tree decorations

Decorating the tree is one of the most eagerly anticipated rituals of the entire Christmas period. Many families have decorations that have been passed down through the ages, heirlooms that provide a connection stretching back generations.

Imagine then putting your own stamp on the family Christmas tree for years to come by creating handmade decorations from casting resin. You could cast a decoration whilst sipping on a glass of mulled wine in 2020 that is still used by your relatives to decorate a tree in 2090.

Resin Christmas decorations are easy to make. Simply take a mould of an existing decoration you like using 380 Silicone Moulding Rubber and then create a replica of it with a festive coloured casting resin like Polycast G26 Emerald Green or Polycast G26 Red.

Alternatively, you can turn other Christmas-related items like heart shaped jewellery or little toy reindeers into moulds, resin cast a new decoration, attach some ribbon and then hang the finished product from your tree.

Adding sparkles and glitter to the resin creates a truly Christmasy decoration which, because it is handmade, will be unique to your family. Then you just have to hope it is looked after for the next 70 years.

Create your own Christmas wine glasses using modelling putty

Christmas time, mistletoe and wine as Cliff Richard likes to sing. If you are planning on opening a few bottles of vino over the festive period, then get your drink vessel of choice ready by adding decoration to your wine glasses.

Geomfix modelling putty comes in a variety of colours including Red, Emerald Green, Crystal White and Jet Black. It can be used to create little Christmas trinkets such as candy canes, holly and Santa hats which can then be attached to wine glasses.

No superglue is needed – Geomfix offers a high-strength bond to all materials, including glass, china and ceramics. You can attach Geomfix to practically anything for creating handmade Christmas gifts to give away to friends and family.

Handmade Christmas cards with decorations

Remember those tree decorations made from casting resin that we mentioned earlier? How about taking one of those and giving it away as a cool little gift by attaching it to a handmade Christmas card?

All of a sudden, you are not just sending out cards this festive season – you are giving away quirky little presents too. Check out this video in which The Pea Hive show just how easy casting a festive snowflake and attaching it to a card can be:

Resin cast Christmas tree decorations are not the only seasonal sprucing you can add to a card. Anything made using Geomfix will also bond to paper, so you can attach those putty candy canes, holly branches and Santa hats which have already brightened up those wine glasses.

Watch… 3 Christmas gifts & decorations you can make in 15 minutes

Just in time for Christmas, SylCreate have joined YouTube. We will be using our channel to share with you model making, casting and other craft techniques as well as showing you how to make the most of the SylCreate range of products.

One of our first videos is a Christmas special as The Pea Hive make three handmade Christmas decorations in just over 15 minutes using Geomfix Red, Geomfix Crystal White and a dash of Sylmasta CAE1500 Superglue.

We are making Christmas crafting easier by combining all the products used by The Pea Hive into one Christmas Creator Kit.

It contains the four festive-coloured versions of Geomfix, Polycast Green and Polycast Red casting resins, moulding rubber and a whole host of accessories to help you have a home made Christmas

Priced at £59.99, the Christmas Creator Kit offers a £49.15 saving on buying products individually. If you require only single items, then you can browse the entire Sylmasta Christmas Collection here.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year from all of us at SylCreate and The Pea Hive.

Britain is going back into lockdown. The United Kingdom government announced that lockdown restrictions are to be imposed from Thursday 5^th November 2020 until at least Wednesday 2^nd December – which means that the nation will suddenly find itself with a lot of time for craft, hobby and model making. Again.

The previous shutdown saw millions of people across the country use their increased time at home to take up new craft skills, rediscover old pastimes and become creative in a way in which modern life pre-lockdown never really allowed. It was one of the few positives of those Spring months confined to our homes.

And here we go again. The prospect of a winter lockdown is even more bleak; cold weather, darkness and the prospect of a quite different Christmas which is rapidly approaching are set to make these latest restrictions more challenging than the first.

Which is why craft, hobby and model making is going to be important again. What better way to help pass the time and take your mind off the world than by getting creative and having something to show for your efforts when the country opens again?

Here are our top four SylCreate craft, hobby and model making products to get you through Lockdown 2.

Casting Kit

Resin casting is an extremely popular pastime – and it is not hard to see why. It involves taking a mould of an item and then recreating it multiple times using casting resin. There are so many directions that you can go when resin casting that it is hard to know where to begin.

Our friends at The Pea Hive create brilliant handmade jewellery. Design Director Loz produces colourful, kitsch, and sparkly items with resins which she sets with additional materials including Swarovski crystals and glitter.

Let us whisk you from earrings and necklaces to ancient Rome. Paul Hallett uses casting resins to recreate scale replicas of historic buildings including Tudor homes, Victorian pubs and his pièce de resistance, a stunning Roman amphitheatre which took two years to make. Fingers crossed Lockdown 2 does not go on for long enough for you to have a go at that…

To make the casting and mould making process simple, we sell all the products needed to get started in one easy-to-user kit. The SylCreate Casting Kit comes with silicone moulding rubber to create moulds, resin to pour into the moulds which create casts alongside all the accessories needed.

There are full instructions included with the kit which will guide you through the entire process. Who knows where a journey into the world of resin casting will take you? Homemade jewellery, newly cast versions of ornaments and trinkets you already own, maybe even a Colosseum or two – the possibilities are endless.

Modelling Putty Kit

You can use modelling putty to create almost anything. We have seen our products used to carve creations, create Funkos, take paw prints of animals, modify military figures, sculpt accessories and even repair a 19th century lantern.

Some of the most intricate model makers are found in the fantastic world of fantasy. Whole sections of the huge Warhammer Community and the table-top gaming sphere rely on modelling putties to bring their ideas to life.

The Goblin Master Kevin Adams is one of the world’s leading model makers when it comes to – surprise, surprise – goblins. Kevin has many other strings to his bow, including one of our favourite uses of modelling putty when he converts heads on existing models into anything in exchange for charity donations at the annual Bring Out Your Lead event hosted by Foundry Miniatures. Many people ask Kevin to sculpt the faces of their wife and children in putty.

For beginners who want to start using model making putty as part of their new lockdown craft hobby, it can often be difficult to know which putty to use – which is where the Modelling Putty Kit comes in. We have bundled up our three most popular putties – Green Stuff, Magic Sculp and Geomfix Original A+B – in one kit at a cheaper cost compared to buying separately.

Not only can you experiment with different putties to see which one works best for you, but you can also mix modelling putties together. Combining Green Stuff with Geomfix can create a new putty with unique properties for different tasks.

It is a brilliant way to get creative – although we would not recommend sculpting your wife’s face without some serious practice, unless you are actively trying for a divorce.

Sylmasta Superglue Kit

During the previous lockdown between March and September, Hornby enjoyed a 33% jump in sales. The company is most famous for its model railways, but it now also makes Scalextric racing sets and Airfix model plane kits amongst others.

Model railway enthusiasts are well catered for with our Slater’s Plastikard Purge. Every sheet of embossed Plastikard we have in stock has been cut to £1.50, a discount of 50% on the normal sale price.

Away from Plastikard, lots of the model making, craft and hobby tasks you might find yourself wanting to undertake during lockdown require a common material – glue. In which case, you will  want to get your hands on the Sylmasta Superglue Kit.

The Kit comes with three different viscosity superglues which bond to all materials. Also included are Ultra-Fine Nozzles which offer greater control over the application process. For those wanting to glue in a hurry, the Sylmasta Superglue & Activator Kit comes with additional activator which speeds up the curing process of the glue.

Superfast Wood Stick

It was not just craft, hobby and model making that received a boon from lockdown first time around – lots of people used their newfound spare time for carrying out DIY and restoration tasks.

If you have wood on your mind, then we have just the product for you. Superfast Wood Stick is an epoxy putty which is used for restoring and repairing all types of wood. Whether it is an ornament with chunks missing, furniture which requires restoring or a fence with holes that need filling, simply cut off the amount of putty required from the stick, knead it by hand and mould it into a repair.

Superfast Wood Stick is not the only epoxy putty we have for restoration. Over on Sylmasta.com you will find Superfast Concrete Stick which does the same job on stone and concrete whilst Milliput Terracotta is perfect for any terracotta coloured repairs you may suddenly find yourself with the time to carry out.